Basic Tree Care

Planting

As with many things in life, a good beginning can help insure good results...

For everything there is a right season...

The best time for planting is in the fall. When trees begin to drop their leaves, start planting. If you miss the autumn planting, then plant in early Spring. Never, never plant in mid-summer or mid-winter.

a right place...

Plant in well drained, non-compacted areas of your landscape. Pay attention to the needs of the particular plant. Does it need full sun? Full shade? Plan and plant accordingly.

...and a right way.

Your planting hole should be wider than the root ball--two to three times wider, if possible. Slope the sides gradually, making the hole saucer or bowl shaped. Don't dig the hole too deep--just deep enough for the root ball is fine; the tree needs firm support to stabilize it. When soil is added back in the hole, the root flare should be at grade level. (The root flare is the transition area between the trunk and the roots.) If the tree's branches are coming up out of the planting hole, the hole is definitely too deep!

If the root ball is wrapped in burlap (usually called balled and burlapped), then cut any string holding the burlap on, peel the burlap away from the top of the root ball, and cover the root ball. Don't leave any burlap exposed to the air, as it can "wick" moisture right away from the roots of the tree!

If the root ball has a wire frame attached, I recommend that you remove it before planting.

Care for Young Plants

Mulch

Mulch is number one for a reason. This is the most important, most beneficial step you can take for young plants. Mulch insulates the root zone of the plant, protecting it from rapid temperature changes. It helps hold moisture for the tree, and it also protects the plant from lawn mower and weed whacker damage, which is frequently fatal. As it decomposes, mulch can also help provide needed nutrients back to the soil. Studies have shown that properly applied mulch can result in nearly doubled growth rates for new trees. Mulch should be applied no deeper than four inches, and should be applied in a circle three to four times the diameter of the root ball. Don't pile the mulch directly against the trunk of the tree.

Water

From Spring through early Fall, you should be prepared to provide water for your trees and shrubs if nature doesn't. Your woody plants do not need water as often as your turf does. Young trees and shrubs need a thorough watering about twice per week. Generally, provide (by light sprinkling) 1 to 2 inches of water per watering. You can determine this amount by placing a coffee can or other container in the sprinkler pattern, then water until there is 1-2 inches of water in the can. If you will keep track of how long this takes, use that time as a guideline for future waterings. You should provide adequate water across from near the trunk through to the dripline and beyond, if possible.

Staking

Staking should only been done when a tree is obviously unstable. Trees should be staked for no more than 1-2 years, and care should be taken to ensure that guy cables and cords don't damage the bark.

Pruning

Proper pruning in young trees can ensure a stable branch structure as the tree grows and matures. Crossing and interfering limbs should be removed, and branches should be as evenly spaced up the trunk of the tree as possible. Allow the low branches to remain on the tree as long as possible, as this helps promote trunk taper and promote greater overall strength for the tree as it grows.

Long Term Care

Trees are our oldest living citizens, and they provide us pleasure and protection for years. Here's how we can pay them back...

Water

Water is as important to mature trees as it is to newly planted trees. If it is practical to water your mature trees, Provide 1-2 inches of water about once every 10 days or so.

Pruning

Pruning is done for many reasons: To improve the overall structure of trees, to remove hazardous limbs, to help the tree grow around obstacles, and to enhance the health of trees. Proper pruning removes dead and diseased wood, crossing and interfering limbs, sucker growth and water sprouts, and limbs interfering with lawn maintenance or vehicle traffic. It can improve air circulation through and around trees, making trees less susceptible to certain diseases. If you prune your own trees, it is important to keep the following do's and don'ts in mind:

• Do make proper pruning cuts. To shorten limbs, cut primary limbs back to secondary limbs. To remove entire limbs, remove the limb at the branch bark ridge, the swollen area where the branch arises from the trunk.
• Don't make stub cuts or flush cuts.
• Do remove deadwood and broken limbs.
• Don't remove more than thirty percent of the tree's foliage in any growing season.
• Do observe all proper safety procedures and precautions. You are much more valuable than your tree.

Health Care

Trees, like people, experience stress, get sick, and need intervention to help recover...

Stress

Trees experience stress from negative environmental conditions such as drought, heat, too much water, extreme cold, lack of proper nutrients, pollution, trauma from damage to the root system, the trunk or the foliage. When a tree is in a stress situation, its ability to defend itself against insect and disease problems is compromised. To keep our trees healthy, we need to do all we can to reduce the environmental stresses on our landscape trees. Fertilization, water, and proper pruning are all ways to prevent disease problems by reducing stress on our trees.

Symptoms

The most important factor in the health management of trees is the early detection of problems. Simply looking at the bark, structure and foliage of your trees on a regular basis can help you notice even subtle changes in the health of your trees. Symptoms and signs that can alert you to potential health problems in your trees include sudden discoloration of leaves (other than normal seasonal change), sudden leaf drop out of season, defoliation, leaf skeletonization, dieback in areas of the tree, peeling bark, abnormal growths on twigs and leaves, the presence of a noticeable population of insects or caterpillars, holes in the trunk or branches, or any significant unexplained change in the appearance, color or leaf size of your tree. While some (or even most) signs and symptoms do not represent a serious challenge to the health of your tree, all should be investigated until the possibility of a serious problem is eliminated. The Department of Conservation, the University Extension office, or a local tree care company that employs a Certified Arborist can all provide diagnostic assistance.

If you need help...

There may come a time when you just don't know what to do. Here's how to know who to call for help.

Education

Tree care is more than merely knowing how to use a chain saw and a pesticide sprayer. Any company truly dedicated to the professional care of trees and shrubs will take advantage of the educational opportunities in the tree care industry. At a minimum, the company should employ at least one Certified Arborist, and that arborist should be in a position to set performance, procedural and safety standards for the company.

Insurance

Tree care can be dangerous work. Make sure that your tree care company carries adequate liability insurance. You should be able to obtain proof of insurance on request.

References

A reputable tree company should have happy clients that will talk to you. Ask--then call the references.

Professional Associations

A tree company serious about staying up-to-date on the latest research and procedures in tree care should belong to a professional association in the tree care industry, such as the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) or the Tree Care Industry Association (TCIA).